Bada Bagh complex in Jaisalmer, Rajasthan

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Regal shadows

In the middle of the desert, there's a garden that's anything but ordinary—Bada Bagh, visible in the distance in today's image. It is about six kilometres north of Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, and is home to an impressive collection of royal chhatri cenotaphs, built by the Maharajas of Jaisalmer State from the 18th to the early 20th centuries. Meticulously carved from yellow sandstone blocks, these cenotaphs showcase the elegance of Rajasthani architecture, combining elements of Hindu and Islamic styles. Embellished with exquisite paintings, sculptures and inscriptions, these were built in four distinct sizes, each reflecting the royal hierarchy.

The story of this site begins with Jait Singh II, a descendant of Maharawal Jaisal Singh, the founder of Jaisalmer State. In the 16th century, he commissioned a dam that created a water tank, turning the surrounding barren landscape into a lush area. After his passing, his son, Lunkaran, established a garden by the lake and erected a memorial chhatri on a hill overlooking it. Over the years, more cenotaphs were added for Lunkaran and other members of the clan. The last chhatri, dedicated to Maharawal Jawahir Singh, remains unfinished.